My journey to the tribe began at the central bus station at 2.30am. Greasy puddles reflected the moon. Passengers picked their way between the stray dogs and drunks. The sign on the front of my ride ...

A love letter to the UAE… Before you load up the contrarian canon and commit to ‘draft one’ of the negative comment barrage, allow me to issue a disclaimer. No country – past, present or future – has ...