This version - with lobster and scallops - is a lot more luxurious, but it's still comfort food. I like to serve this soup with rice cracklings, which add a crunchy texture and nutty flavour.

Because of its price, lobster is a special occasion treat, but it's not one that's stuffy, at least if you serve it in its shell, as with this dish. It's hard to be formal when you have to roll up ...